Side X Side World Forums banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Put this up over on PRC, thought I would through it up here for those that may not venture over there as much...

To start with you will need remove the old bed so that you can get to the frame. This is done by removing the twelve T-27 torx screws that anchor the bed to the frame. Set the bed aside.


You will then be looking at this:


Now, if you are like me, the bed I bought (off a 2009 Ranger XP LE) did not include the METAL frame that is the portion that pivots and supports the box, you will need to modify the existing steel frame. There fore get ready to CUT. The existing frame is 6 inches wider than the frame that the box normally sits on (I figured this out by sitting the box on the frame and realizing this) therefore you will need to cut three inches off of each of the four frame spars.


You will end up with this :


The next issue that I found was that the supports running front to back on the bed frame line up with those of the box, the four left to right spurs do not. Therefore you will need to trim the appropriate honey comb portions down so that the bed can rest on the frame, for the front portion of the frame the bottom of the lock-n-ride pockets also need to be trimmed up so that they clear the frame.


And this is what the bed looks like when you have spent three hours trying to figure all this out:


AND the best part thus far, THE LIGHT WIRING is the SAME COLORS. The previous owner had cut of the plugs, so I cut the ones of the old bed and spliced them in and plugged it together and hear you go:


This is the mounting system that I used to mount the bed to the frame, 10mm flange bolt through the bed then into a 3/8 fender washer (allows the plastic of the bed to be pinched between two pieces of steel) then the spacer between the bed and frame followed by a ny-lock to keep it all tight. Seems to have worked out very well and I am VERY happy with the results.


Now if you look closely at the bed you will notice that the top two rows of bolts are further spaced out, this is because I used the "stock" spacing for these bolts. However, because I have the 1" angle in the bed for the mounting the back seat I decided to just use those point as my mounting for the back portion of the box.


I still need to build a support bracket to go from the frame to the tailgate bracket, however for that I need some 1" angle, so until I get it bought for the dual battery tray it will have to wait. I will post pictures of it once I get it welded up and installed.
 

·
SSW Rally/Event Director
Joined
·
5,153 Posts
That turned out great, Ryan! 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
and the finishing touches...

THANKS! So while I was at work on the new battery box I also finished up the box install (I bought an entire 20' length of 1x1 (3/16) angle after all! The back of the 2009 box has a pinch rail underneath the tailgate that supports the tailgate/back of the box as well as keep the back corners of the box from spreading apart, the stock 2004 Ranger frame does not have this, so I needed to add the back plate for the pinch rail to finish it all off. To start I first cut the angle to length (52") and slid it up against the pinch rail and clamped it in place.

I then welded the square tubing that you see in the picture to the 1x1 angle and to another piece of 1x1 that was previously bolted to the box frame to hold my licence plate mount.

Once it was all welded up solid and square, I dilled out the mounting holes and used 5/16 bolts to "pinch" it all together.


So... why use the square tubing and not just angle iron back to the frame? Well I have future plans for a cooler/tool box rack that will mount into the tubing on the back. (1x1 tubing fits nicely inside of 1"1/4 x 1"1/4 (.083 wall) square. This will allow it to be pinned into place and quickly removed when needed like all good lock-n-ride accessories. :lol: There are actually four squares across the back to hold the rack. So look for that as a future installment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
My next build is a 94 Xcab ranger with a tube bed, shortened wb, undecided motor, manual trans and dual tcases. The "blog" build is a 96 xcab, no frame/chassis...

SVT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
It would be nice if they brought this over. I dont think Fords justification for disc. the Ranger because of the more efficient F150 is correct. Sometimes its nice to be able to have a truck and be able to fit it in the garage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Josh does just fine on his 44 and 40s. I vote for the same setup me and Greg have. 8.8 rear, 44 front. Then weld them, hydro, drive flanges, 2 tcases at minimum. Motor and trans wont matter. Pick up a gen 1 or 2 Ranger, gut and strip it minus chassis and cab, now go.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top