HiSUN strike 250 | Side X Side World

HiSUN strike 250

Discussion in 'Other Brand SXS Discussion' started by strike250, Jun 9, 2016.

  1. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    Hello there, new member here. I have bought a Chinese made UTV. HiSUN Strike 250 and my son loves it. I have found a few things to improve with it, and will be addressing them and more as well. I have started a web site relating to the mods and fixes for this utv as well.
    We have done improvements on the suspension, exhaust, lighting, winch and more.
    I have also done some research on this utv and found out a lot of specs that just aren't available. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
    The wheels are the same bolt pattern as Yamaha's Raptor or Banshee, front is 4x156 and rear is 4x115.
    some of the things we have found out is the OEM nuts and bolts are by far a poor quality. They will strip if tightened outside of the torque specs. You should replace them with higher quality versions if possible. I also recommend replacing the OEM winch cable with a synthetic rope as well. The OEM cable is a poor quality, and I would not trust it from fraying, thus injuring the operator. We installed a 5/16" synthetic rope with 50' length. The OEM one is just 3/16".
    I also fabricated a 2" lift kit, allowing the use of OEM shocks and suspension, a true bolt on kit giving it more ground clearance.
    I am currently working on a bolt on performance exhaust as well as a full long arm suspension system to get some serious air time.
    I have also found the factory shift rod crosses over the exhasut header, causing some hard shifting into reverse. I have created a new linkage, allowing clearance from the exhaust, and making it easier to shift. I have also wraped the exhaust header in heat wrap, keeping things cool and safe. I have found a few other things about this quad.
    The factory seemed to route the fuel line outside the throttle cable on my unit. It was causing it to rub on the fuel line, so I re-routed it to the proper location. I also found some wires zip tied to one of the coolant hoses, this might cause a wiring melt down over time. So I corrected this and zip tied the wiring to a bracket on the engine instead. I also heat wrapped the coolant hose and wiring harness with heat tape to keep them safe from the exhaust temp. I also found that removing the panel under the seats to access the engine was far from easy. So, I modified the cover to make removal easier.
    Another thing I noticed, what that removing all the body work is not so easy. The plastic is hard and brittle, which might crack when moved or bent to hard. The panels are overlapping, meaning you have to remove a lot of things to access just one area. Example: if you want to remove the front end cover, you have to unbolt and remove the roll cage. If you want to access the dash cover and remove, you have to remove the front cover, and roll cage. If you want to do anything easy, take your time and watch what you are doing. It is recommended to add quick disconnect electrical connectors when you are adding accessories. this will make removing anything to access equipment easier. (lessons learned).
    I hope this will help you, and if not, please let me know.
     
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  2. Marky

    Marky Starting Member

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    Finally someone who is putting some information out there. I also bought one for my sons and it has really been pretty good. my son did have and accident and i found the coleman spire 250 is an exact match on oem parts. I ordered parts from coleman.netsuite.com. i found the chain is a 520 sealed oring chain as well. i would very much be interested in any other perfomance addons you might have if you have a website let me know. my biggest complaint is the low end torque seems to be sluggish especially when first started up. please let me know on any further advances you might have come up with for this machine.
     
  3. Marky

    Marky Starting Member

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    sorry coleman outfitter is the correct name the bennche was the spire but the parts are more expensive there
     
  4. dmt400

    dmt400 Starting Member

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    I am buying a bennche Spire 250 for my son for x-mas. Thanks for the info. what did you do to make the lift kit? can you send pics?

    thanks!
     
  5. Legendrocks75

    Legendrocks75 Starting Member

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    Hi there, new member as well.
    I picked up a strike 250 in September last year , my seven-year-old daughter absolutely loves it. We primarily ride in the Oregon dunes, I like your idea of a lift on that. Wondering if you could shoot over some photos of what you did so I can compare to what I'm thinking? It does well, but if she goes to slow over a Razorback it tends to high center.

    She would also like a little more power, I was thinking of doing the ECU Kit and maybe drilling out the pipe for some more flow.

    If it's easier to shoot the pictures to my email it is a [email protected]

    Thanks, shane
     
  6. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    Sorry for the long delay in getting back here, I had to do and do my military duty for a while. I wanted to be able to add some tech files to this forum, as I have had this unit down to the chassis and replaced just about every nut and bolt, so I am fairly knowledgeable with it.
    I have experience with changing the CV belt, installing lift kits, modified exhaust and much more. Some of the thing you need to be aware of are that the suspension bushings are not lubed, and are made of plastic. 1.)I would recommend taking the front A arm bushing out and lubing them up well. This will make them last much longer and work better.
    2.) the rear swing arm bushings are not much better and can use lubrication as well.
    3.) Like what was said earlier, change the drive chain when you get a chance, this does a few things, one is makes the sprockets last longer with a higher quality chain, and second with a good o ring chain, it will last longer than the OEM version.
    4.) There are brake pad sets available aftermarket at a great price, and higher quality than the OEM versions.
    5.) USE CAUTION when dealing with the OEM plastic, it is brittle and can crack and break easily.
    6.) We rolled our unit during an outing at Dumont Dunes and found the CV belt smoking after about an hour. This was caused by engine oil spilling back from the engine vent into the air intake and then down onto the CV belt. Since the engine doesnt use that much oil, it is important that you check the engine level after any roll over to prevent engine damage and CV belt saturation. The CV belt is not an easy thing to change!
    7.) the front and rear hubs are copies of Yamaha products, and can be replaced easily with quality units.
    8.) We found the OEM seat belts/harness works average. We replaced them with high quality 4 point harness aftermarket for about $180. Much safer, larger and works/adjust easier.
    9.) Anytime you are removing one of the OEM bolts or nuts, it might be the right time to replace with a higher quality version. I spent about $20 bucks for some high quality box of 6mmx25mm bolts and have replaced most of the factory ones. The threads are much better and hold up way better.
    10.) I replaced the front and rear lights with LED versions, which use less power and give off much better lighting. All you need to do is replace the bulbs and they plug and play.

    If you have any other questions, please feel free to contact me. I will be posting the tech article on the CV belt replacement next.
    Matt
     
  7. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    IMG_20170401_164803626.jpg
     
  8. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    Hisun Strike 250 CV belt replacement;

    This will outline the process to replace the CV belt on the Chinese made UTV known as the Hisun Strike 250. this will also cover some other units known as Massimo, Bennche and more.

    The reason it is not easy to change the CV belt is because the clutch cover is blocked by the fuel tank, and you will need to slide the fuel tank out of the way in order to remove the clutch cover to gain access to the CV belt.

    1.) Remove the seats, doing so by sliding them forward until they come out of the tracks and then put them aside.
    2.) Remove the seat tracks by removing the 4 bolts holding them in place. Put them aside.
    3.) Remove the battery cover and disconnect the battery at this point.
    4.) Go behind the rear wheel well and remove the right and left plastic covers in front of the rear wheels. they are held in place with 4 philips screws and one 10mm nut. This will give you access to the under side of the seat area.
    5.) Remove the rear most skit plate, you will need to do this to gain access to some of the bolts holding on the clutch cover.
    6.) At this point, you might wan to consider doing an oil change, since you will be right there anyhow.
    7.) Remove the lower seat belt bolts and flip the harnesses up and over the rear roll bar and into the rear cargo area for now and out of the way.
    8.) Remove the center engine cover by twisting the two large plastic tabs located towards the front of the cover.
    9.) Pull out the electrical wiring out of the battery compartment by using the area accessed from the rear panel you removed earlier. You will need to disconnect the ECU and the regulator as well.
    10.) You will now have access to the large lower plastic engine bay cover. Take care when removing this piece, as it is hard plastic and brittle. It will crack or break if bent to much (trust me I know). I did end up cutting the large plastic cover up the middle so I had two separate pieces to deal with. This made it much easier to remove and replace. It also made it so that I can remove just one side if I so wanted to in the future. There are three phillips screws on each side by the side panels, don't forget to remove these.
    11.) Once you have the large lower plastic cover removed, and wiped the sweat off of your forhead, you are ready to continue.
    12.) You will now see a large cross bar that holds the fuel tank in place as well as being used to secure the seat belt bolts. This bar goes from one side to the other and is held in place with only two 10mm bolts on each side. But the odd thing here is that it is also under the throttle body, which makes it hard to actually remove. If you can, just loosen and pull out the throttle body so you can pull the cross bar up and out of the way. You will need to loosen and remove the throttle cable here. Don't forget to plug up the inlet to the intake, so nothing gets into the engine at this point.
    13.) You should be able to now gain access to the fuel tank. It is held in place by two bolts, and two small electrical connectors. The fuel tank cap is too large to pull through the opening on the side cover. You might have to actually remove the right side cover to prevent fuel from spilling out when you pull the fuel tank out of the way. Once you have the fuel tank free, you don't need to pull it completely out of the unit, just enough to allow you access to the clutch cover, up and at an angle worked for me.
    14.) Once you have access to the clutch cover, you have a few 10mm bolts to remove, and when the cover comes out, you will also see a rubber gasket come out with it. don't loose or damage this, as I am sure you don't have a spare on hand. This is used to prevent dust and liquids from entering the clutch assembly
    15.) There are two pulleys you will see, the primary and secondary clutches. For simple text, we will call them the front and the rear clutch pulleys. You will see two small threaded holes on the rear clutch pulley sheave. You will need to insert two long 6mm threaded bolts into them and slowly tighten the down. this will separate the sheaves and allow the belt to loosen. In the OEM manual, this will allow the belt to slip over the clutch assemblies and remove. But I have found otherwise.
    16.) Once you have the sheaves spread apart about an inch, I ended up using a torque wrench and removing the front clutch assembly. It is held in place with a 17mm nut. I then simply pulled it out of the way. the CV belt then slid off the rear clutch pulleys easily. I did this for another reason I later found out. I inspected the front clutch assembly and found the inner weights to need service.
    17.) remove the three small screws holding the cover on the front clutch cover and you will then remove a second inner plate. Under that plate you will find the 6 clutch roller weights. I found mine to be completely dry and without any lube. They should be lubed and smooth and round. Inspect the roller weights and replace if you find any flat spots on them. the manual states to use 90g grease.
    18.) Once I service the clutch roller weights I was also able to clean the sheaves using scotch brite much easier than if I had left the front clutch alone.
    19.) Replace the CV belt making sure that either the arrow is facing the direction towards the front of the vehicle, or the lettering is facing you as you install the belt.
    20.) Replace the front clutch assembly and re-torque the 17mm nut down to approx 51 ft lbs of torque.

    You are now ready to reverse the order in which you removed everything. This is not a 10 minute job, it will take the better part of the day if this is your first time. Just relax, stop throwing wrenches and it will happen. This is a great way to get to know your 250's engine, and how things are put together. You will also find for sure some loose, broken, bent or missing bolts. I found this time to do a lot of upgrades, like wrap the exhaust with heat wrap, modify the lower large plastic cover to make it easier to remove next time and re route some wiring that the factory did a sloppy job on. Keep in mind as well, this UTV doesn't have a ton of torque, so you shouldn't have to replace this belt anytime soon, so that is some good news. But if everything is done and fixed, you should have great weekends of fun and enjoyment.
    If you have any ideas, hints or helpful suggestions, please feel free to add them. We can all use the help. The factory manual is very basic when it comes to directions on removing the CV belt. IMG_20160607_143848652_HDR - Copy.jpg IMG_20160622_111846602.jpg IMG_20160622_111854833.jpg IMG_20160622_112417705.jpg IMG_20160622_120814896.jpg
     
  9. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    IMG_20170407_155919057.jpg IMG_20170407_155341569_HDR.jpg IMG_20170407_155249467_HDR.jpg
     
  10. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    Here are some pics of the clutch roller weights, and how dry everything was. I was glad I removed this to inspect it. Proper lube is important. I wish the factory did a better quality control here.
     
  11. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    Here are some pics of our custom exhaust system we made. Sounds great and works amazing. IMG_20160731_174344353.jpg IMG_20170401_164845027_HDR.jpg IMG_20160731_174145112.jpg
     
  12. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    Here are some pics of our 2" lift kits installed. True bolt on and uses all OEM suspension. They come with laser cut plates, all bolts and nuts and spacers. IMG_20170401_164831391_HDR.jpg IMG_20170401_164855320.jpg IMG_20170401_164812760.jpg IMG_20170401_164803626.jpg IMG_20170401_164824968_HDR.jpg
     
  13. Mike in Texas

    Mike in Texas Starting Member

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    Does anyone know where you can get a performance clutch for the strike 250? Or any performance parts at all?
     
  14. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    I couldn't find anyone out there doing performance parts as well, that's why we started our own performance products. We did our own exhaust system and are currently working on a clutch kit, but it is not ready yet. I know there are some EFI products out there that seem to work pretty good from what I have heard. Even power commander makes something for this. Air filters are a little hard to find in the aftermarket area, but keep looking. I do make lift kits that are 2". and soon to have some more exhaust systems available as I sold out of my first batch about two months ago and just haven't gotten around to making any more just yet. Really, it just depends on what you are going to do with it, race, dune, or just have some weekend fun. Just about any quality piston company can make a larger piston and you can bore it out a bit. But the best you can do is get the air and fuel in and out of the cylinder head as fast as possible, that will be the real power. Try Magnum power for an EFI power kit, they have a few things. Also, the lighter it is, the faster it will go as well. I am working on a larger fuel injector and hope to get it figured out soon. Mat
     
  15. Mike in Texas

    Mike in Texas Starting Member

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    I made a lift kit and also put taller tires on it to get some ground clearance. Had problems with the front sprocket falling off. Tried red loctite and the nut still kept loosening up. Mines a 2014 , ordered sprocket for a 2015 and it is bigger. Same amount of teeth but larger. The drive chain (with original sprocket) rode right on the nut. The 2015 sprocket cures the problem. But now with the taller tires and bigger sprocket the belt slips sometimes. Haven't taken it apart yet to see if it's damaged. All in all I really enjoy it. Even though I abuse it and run the crap out of it is holding up well. Also, I'm looking for some shocks for it.
     
  16. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    The front sprocket should be held in place by a special washer that has tabs that you bend back towards the sprocket to secure the nut in place. Make sure you have that washer. I am including a pic for you to better understand. IMG_20160620_151251356 (2).jpg
     
  17. Mike in Texas

    Mike in Texas Starting Member

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    Yes I have the washer. The 2014 chain rides right on that washer. I think that is what helps it loosen up. The 2015 sprocket is bigger so there is clearance. So far I haven't had a problem with the new sprocket.
     
  18. Mike in Texas

    Mike in Texas Starting Member

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  19. Trent Cornum

    Trent Cornum Starting Member

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    Hello all i just bought one for my 10 year old.... Cool little machine quick question though top speed is 25 and then it governs out it seems as though the RPM are also running really hight 6000 at 25 MPH.. is this normal and is there any way to take the governor off?
     
  20. strike250

    strike250 Regular Member

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    You should be doing more than the 25 mph. are you sure it is not stuck in L? Make sure the dash indicator says H. That might be the issue. Another issue is that the belt is slipping, You can make sure the sheaves are clean and there are no groves on them to allow the belt to ride up and down the sheaves smoothly. As for the governor is there to make sure the rpm's dont exceed the engines ability. You could end up floating the valves. But I would make sure you are getting all the shift points when you move the shift lever, L, H, N, R. this would tell you that the linkage is adjusted properly. Let me know. Matt
     

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