Side X Side World Forums banner

Section 0 - Clutching-Tools needed and/or Required

528 Views 3 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  BlackBart
There are quite a number of vendors that provide the tools necessary for Clutching,
(ie. Primary Clutch Puller, Secondary Clutch Compression Tool, Clutch Alignment Tool, etc.)

I thought that this thread would be an ideal place for anyone to post pics and/or how they fabbed up a tool. Now I’m not implying that you shouldn’t purchase one or more of these devices, but if you’re only going to make a few changes, WHY NOT Save some $$.
You could probably afford to purchase some additional springs to add to your arsenal.

I know that Dave,Gunrunner, has an inexpensive Secondary tool, so DAVE, Show up what you’ve done.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
OK, I''ll get it started.
Have found & used these ideas.
NOT my own, just picked them up from 2 other great guys.

Love this one, THE ******* method, submitted by Curt,PRC Forum,GSXR1181

Just find or buy a 2" trailer ball that's got a fine thread. Take a 5/8" extension with a socket on it, and insert it in the hole, then thread your trailer ball in the primary. Use a pipe wrench on the ball to gain more leverage.

This is the one I use, submitted by Marty,PRC Forum,martymoe

To get your clutch(the whole thing) off you need a puller OR a 3/4-16 bolt. If you use the bolt you will need a spacer or something to put in the hole to use as a pilot. Screw the bolt down and tighten up on it(hard)...the clutch will pop loose.

I cut a piece of 1/2" steel rod, 4" long, then purchase a 3/4-16 bolt 4 3/4" inches long from Lowes. Forget total investment, but CHEAP, it works and is short enought to fit between the primary clutch & fuel tank. You could use a bolt shorter, but that's all I could find on that particular trip. I highlighted below the bolt and on the threaded end, to show just how many threads it took to draw it up.

Now if you want the REAL DEAL, most all the vendors have a professional looking model.:)

See less See more
One of the members came up with a pretty clever secondary clutch compression tool. I don't think he'd mind if I linked to it for him.
It's GunRunner (Dave in Ga)

If you're thinking about putting a clutch kit in your RZR or Ranger you will need to change the secondary clutch spring, this can not be done by hand, the rest of the kit can be so I thought i would post the way i came up with to do it.
The factory built tools for changing the secondary spring are nice but run about a hundred bucks with shipping. Now if your doing it all the time its the way to go. But for most of us that are going to do it once or even 5 or 6 times then I just could not see buying one. A friend took his to a dealer and paid 40.00, so I decided to build one. I paid 10 bucks for everything but a lot of you guys could build it for free from stuff you already have im sure. I t consists of the following;

1 piece of 7/16 threaded rod 24'' long w/2 nuts and 2 washers
2 pieces of 1/2 inch pipe 6'' long.
2 1/4'' bolts 4.5'' long w/2 nuts and 4 washers
one piece of flat steel 4'' long 2'' wide, drill 7/16 hole in center and 2, 1/4'' holes 1.5'' to each side from the center hole.
I wrapped tape around some of the threads to keep it off the clutch splines.
You will as said before need a good pair of heavy duty snap ring pliers.
How to Use;
Remove 4 torx screws on back plate on clutch and remove the helix.
Insert rod with one washer and nut on bottom up thru clutch.
drop on the 4'' piece of flat steel with the 2, 1/4'' bolts bolted to it bolt head down onto the dampener with the rollers, it should fit to the outside of the spring clip.
drop on the two pieces of pipe and a washer and nut and tighten it a few turns till the pressure is off the spring clip, then squeeze it and slide it up out of the grove.
Remove top nut and take the rod out and lift up on the dampener to remove it.
Replacement is the reverse except you must line up the double tooth on the spline with the double tooth in the dampener, its best to mark these before removal, also when installing the helix be sure to line up the X marks on it and the clutch.
This is for the Team secondary like on a 09 S, but it will work the same for
the newer team rapid reaction other than you will have no helix to remove first.
I know its crude but it works! I can change the spring in 5 min. or less, or if you have
a press you can just use the flat steel w/bolts this will work good too.
Build and use at your own risk.

See less See more
Homemade Clutch Spring Tester

Some of you fellas may not know this, but your clutch springs will SET or relax after a period of time or if you have HIGH HP.
Here's a little homemade test that I came up with. Kinda simple but it works, the only thing that you'll need to know is the
Free Length
Installed Length
Compress Length
of the spring that you're checking.

Spring Tester purchased from Summit Racing about $75(little pricey) but I can test both the Primary and Secondary(with a little homemade insert) Springs

Closeup of Gauge (showing weight spread)

Didn't place it in the vise, but I believe you can get the general idea. You can also use an Arbor Press if you have one. As you can see, one can use a ruler to measure the INSTALLED LENGTH as well as the COMPRESSED LENGTH. *** WORD OF CAUTION, for those who are not aware of it,

Also picked up a set of Calipers from Summit(pretty fair for the price) about

Close up of Caliper
See less See more
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.