OVERVIEW of Items affecting CLUTCHING
_____________________________________
The primary intent of this segment is to attempt to point of some of the factors that will and do affect HOW you SETUP or CHANGE your clutching.
RIDING Preferences or Styles
________________________________________________________________________
The BIGGEST determination is RIDING Preference. I’ve said it in Past Postings, BUT
really feel that it’s WORTH emphasizing again.
1)YOU CAN NOT CLUTCH FOR ONE STYLE OF RIDING ONE DAY, THEN THE NEXT DAY TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT…….
2)IF you have a Stock Machine Setup, DO NOT Re-Clutching, you will not gain a thing.
The Stock Clutching setup provided by the Polaris Engineers, DOES AN EXCELLENT
JOB, for about all types of riding.
3)Just because your Next Door Neighbor did it, DOES NOT MEAN it’s going to work for you. ABOVE all, DO NOT Re-Clutching because someone advertises or says that you GAIN XXX Horespower or that your machine will run faster. Simply NOT TRUE.
4)IF you’ve INCREASED your HP, Then you’ve changed the Clutching as it was originally setup AND If you expect to see any gains, RE-CLUTCH
5)If you changed your Original Tire setup, Rims, Tire Width, Tire Height, Tread Design,
Then you’ve changed the Clutching as it was originally setup AND…..MAYBE,
Re-Clutching , could help you regain SOMETHING that you’ve lost in your rim/tire selection. BUT TALLER, HEAVIER TIRES and/or RIMS could mean that some form of RE-GEARING is necessary. Bad News BEARS, it is my understanding at the present, they are NO Re-gearing options afforded to Polaris RZR’s. So either Be HAPPY with what you have OR GO BACK TO SOMETHING that is more in reason, for the purpose or intent that the UTV was Designed for.
YOU WILL NOT BE A HAPPY CAMPER. Case in point, YOU want to be the FASTIEST kid on the Block, OK, either Experiment or Tell your Selected Vendor What you want and YOU WILL GET IT. Get into the MUD Pits, get Dirty, Experiment or Tell your Selected Vendor What you want and YOU WILL GET IT.
BUT DON’T expect a setup that works WELL in a Single Environment to work WELL in another. You’ve got to compromise , Low End Torque(pulling power), Power Slides with no loose of RPM’s, ALL out TOP END. Now you can have a little of ALL or both,
BUT, YOU CAN’T HAVE IT ALL or BOTH WAYS. This has been my impression thru a number of different setups/clutching kits.
I’ll try to break out some of the major points that could affect your decision on where you need to Re-Clutch.
Overall WEIGHT
________________________________________________________________________
Now for some of us, THIS means we need to go on a Diet.
). However, if you have purchased EVERY accessory that was offered and your Friend whips your A.. all the time racing, Then Check out some of the Weights Below, when you determine your setup. These weights were measured using BATHROOM scales (not the Most accurate),
But STILL EYE Opening.
Item Weighted………………Pounds
Typical 2” Ball & Receiver 7.4
Polaris Lock n Ride Accesssory Rack 20
Stock RZR seat 16.4
Grab(OH S…) bar 2.0
Polaris Deluxe Front Bumper 16.8
Polaris Deluxe Rear Bumper 11.16
Polaris Lock n Ride Cargo Box 14.6
PIAA Driving Lights 1.5
Polaris FULL Lock n Ride Windshield 8.4 -REALLY BAD NEWs Due to Wind
Resistance
Polaris Plastic Sports Top 10.4
Aluminum Stick Stoppers (4) 10.2
1 ½” Aluminum Wheel Spacers (each) 2.5
Polaris Stock Steel Rim/Tire 8x12x25 (front) 28.4
Polaris Stock Steel Rim/Tire 10x12x25 (rear) 34.0
Polaris 8-Spoke Aluminum Crushers Rim/Tire 9x14x26 (front) 30.0
Polaris 8-Spoke Aluminum Crushers Rim/Tire 11x14x26 (rear) 38.0
Polaris Rock Sliders (2) 29.0
Warn Winch 29.0
Rear View Mirrow 1.0
And the list goes ON & ON, consider these:
Changes from STOCK
---------------------------
Factory Air/Box Intake
Exhaust
Shocks
Springs
Skid Plate
Beadlock Rims
Heaviest/Tallest Tires Available
OK NOW add it UP, You STILL wondering why YOU get WHIPPED so often, go Figure.
TIRE Size
________________________________________________________________________
Guys this is a REAL Sensitive Issue with some, so I going to reference a post by Cajun, in the atvquadsquad.com. You can view the subject below:
Oversized Tires
I was further informed by Matt @ ATVOUTFITTERS.net that every 1 (ONE) lb of rotating mass equals approximately 25 lbs. of Stationery Weight (may not be an accurate quote, but close).
For some, the topic of tire & wheel size is somewhat confusing, so I’m going to do reference 2 websites, that I feel will clarify these two topics.
Wheel size and Offset
http://www.magicracing.com/extras/offset.html
Tire Size
http://www.magicracing.com/extras/tiresize.html
Now some common sense. If you do run Taller tires, THEN when you first startup, YOU
ARE ALREADY in a HIGHER Gear, so to speak. So you would need reduce your upshift by potentially a HIGHER rated Secondary Spring and perhaps a Higher Engagement Primary Spring to attempt to HOLD you down in Gearing until you got that
SUCKER rollin. The same basic changes would also be necessary for HEAVY rims as well as tires.
This topic is totally open for discussion, so I’m going to take the easy way out, NEXT.
_____________________________________
The primary intent of this segment is to attempt to point of some of the factors that will and do affect HOW you SETUP or CHANGE your clutching.
RIDING Preferences or Styles
________________________________________________________________________
The BIGGEST determination is RIDING Preference. I’ve said it in Past Postings, BUT
really feel that it’s WORTH emphasizing again.
1)YOU CAN NOT CLUTCH FOR ONE STYLE OF RIDING ONE DAY, THEN THE NEXT DAY TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT…….
2)IF you have a Stock Machine Setup, DO NOT Re-Clutching, you will not gain a thing.
The Stock Clutching setup provided by the Polaris Engineers, DOES AN EXCELLENT
JOB, for about all types of riding.
3)Just because your Next Door Neighbor did it, DOES NOT MEAN it’s going to work for you. ABOVE all, DO NOT Re-Clutching because someone advertises or says that you GAIN XXX Horespower or that your machine will run faster. Simply NOT TRUE.
4)IF you’ve INCREASED your HP, Then you’ve changed the Clutching as it was originally setup AND If you expect to see any gains, RE-CLUTCH
5)If you changed your Original Tire setup, Rims, Tire Width, Tire Height, Tread Design,
Then you’ve changed the Clutching as it was originally setup AND…..MAYBE,
Re-Clutching , could help you regain SOMETHING that you’ve lost in your rim/tire selection. BUT TALLER, HEAVIER TIRES and/or RIMS could mean that some form of RE-GEARING is necessary. Bad News BEARS, it is my understanding at the present, they are NO Re-gearing options afforded to Polaris RZR’s. So either Be HAPPY with what you have OR GO BACK TO SOMETHING that is more in reason, for the purpose or intent that the UTV was Designed for.
YOU WILL NOT BE A HAPPY CAMPER. Case in point, YOU want to be the FASTIEST kid on the Block, OK, either Experiment or Tell your Selected Vendor What you want and YOU WILL GET IT. Get into the MUD Pits, get Dirty, Experiment or Tell your Selected Vendor What you want and YOU WILL GET IT.
BUT DON’T expect a setup that works WELL in a Single Environment to work WELL in another. You’ve got to compromise , Low End Torque(pulling power), Power Slides with no loose of RPM’s, ALL out TOP END. Now you can have a little of ALL or both,
BUT, YOU CAN’T HAVE IT ALL or BOTH WAYS. This has been my impression thru a number of different setups/clutching kits.
I’ll try to break out some of the major points that could affect your decision on where you need to Re-Clutch.
Overall WEIGHT
________________________________________________________________________
Now for some of us, THIS means we need to go on a Diet.
But STILL EYE Opening.
Item Weighted………………Pounds
Typical 2” Ball & Receiver 7.4
Polaris Lock n Ride Accesssory Rack 20
Stock RZR seat 16.4
Grab(OH S…) bar 2.0
Polaris Deluxe Front Bumper 16.8
Polaris Deluxe Rear Bumper 11.16
Polaris Lock n Ride Cargo Box 14.6
PIAA Driving Lights 1.5
Polaris FULL Lock n Ride Windshield 8.4 -REALLY BAD NEWs Due to Wind
Resistance
Polaris Plastic Sports Top 10.4
Aluminum Stick Stoppers (4) 10.2
1 ½” Aluminum Wheel Spacers (each) 2.5
Polaris Stock Steel Rim/Tire 8x12x25 (front) 28.4
Polaris Stock Steel Rim/Tire 10x12x25 (rear) 34.0
Polaris 8-Spoke Aluminum Crushers Rim/Tire 9x14x26 (front) 30.0
Polaris 8-Spoke Aluminum Crushers Rim/Tire 11x14x26 (rear) 38.0
Polaris Rock Sliders (2) 29.0
Warn Winch 29.0
Rear View Mirrow 1.0
And the list goes ON & ON, consider these:
Changes from STOCK
---------------------------
Factory Air/Box Intake
Exhaust
Shocks
Springs
Skid Plate
Beadlock Rims
Heaviest/Tallest Tires Available
OK NOW add it UP, You STILL wondering why YOU get WHIPPED so often, go Figure.
TIRE Size
________________________________________________________________________
Guys this is a REAL Sensitive Issue with some, so I going to reference a post by Cajun, in the atvquadsquad.com. You can view the subject below:
Oversized Tires
I was further informed by Matt @ ATVOUTFITTERS.net that every 1 (ONE) lb of rotating mass equals approximately 25 lbs. of Stationery Weight (may not be an accurate quote, but close).
For some, the topic of tire & wheel size is somewhat confusing, so I’m going to do reference 2 websites, that I feel will clarify these two topics.
Wheel size and Offset
http://www.magicracing.com/extras/offset.html
Tire Size
http://www.magicracing.com/extras/tiresize.html
Now some common sense. If you do run Taller tires, THEN when you first startup, YOU
ARE ALREADY in a HIGHER Gear, so to speak. So you would need reduce your upshift by potentially a HIGHER rated Secondary Spring and perhaps a Higher Engagement Primary Spring to attempt to HOLD you down in Gearing until you got that
SUCKER rollin. The same basic changes would also be necessary for HEAVY rims as well as tires.
This topic is totally open for discussion, so I’m going to take the easy way out, NEXT.