2
TEMPERATURE / HUMIDITY / ELEVATION
________________________________________________________________________
As most already know, Clutch kits typically come in 2 packages (0-3000’ Elevation, Above 3000’ Elevation). The reason for this is that your motor will make less power in higher elevations due to the air being less dense. In order for an engine to run properly, you gotta have O2 (air), so the kits have various Flyweight & Spring Combinations to insure that the motor will run in the correct RPM range for these higher elevations.
In the Starting Clutch Overview, Cajun(forum moderator for atvquadsquad) posted:
QUOTE (The general rule of thumb for power losses at altitude are 3% for every thousand feet above sea level. There’s a bit more to it than that, but the rule gives a general idea of power loss. So, if I were to take my quad to 10,000ft., I can expect about an approximate 30% horsepower and torque loss. Because I’m clutched for sea level, my flylweights will be too heavy and I’ll never reach peak rpm. Polaris has some general recommendations for weights at altitudes for quads. I would be surprised if they don’t have similar recommendations for RZRs and Rangers. If I were to take my quad to Colorado, I would probably reduce my flyweights in anticipation of altitude. If you intend to clutch for your highest altitude, you will be bouncing off the rev limiter at lower altitudes. A compromise would be in order.)
I feel his statement pretty much SAYS IT ALL in regards to altitude, so I’ll say,
"THANK YOU", Cajun.
Most of the Newer GPS units provide or indicate what elevation you are at, But if you don’t have a GPS or your unit does not provide that info, you can go to:
EarthTools - Find places, latitude/longitude, sunrise/sunset, elevation, local time and time zones
to find your elevation as well as other useful bits of info, like sunrise/sunset times, local time & time zone, location of places, etc.
Has anyone every noticed that on some particular days, the machine seems to be performing better than others. YES, well this is also attributable to the outside temperature and humidity. As some may already know and for others, you have a Sensor
called the TBAP (short for temperature, barometric air pressure) that is located NORMALLY in the rubber boot between the air box and the throttle body. This little guys samples the air flowing into the engine and sends signals to the ECU (computer brain) on the unit. The ECU has been programmed with various fuel & timing adjustments (maps) where the Polaris Engineers strive to get the maximum performance out of a particular engine. For the most part, we have no or little control of these many,many map combinations, however I felt that small FACTOID would provide a little bit more information explaining good or lackluster performance.
Engine Mods/Turbos/Superchargers
________________________________________________________________________
Since the Polaris Engineers developed/tested their clutch setups for a particular HP as well as RPM range, if you do anything to alter or change your peak RPM, you will need to change your Clutching setup. The very basic reasoning is that you have increased torque,HP, RPM’s and these Faster Goodies are NOT available due to a power loss UNLESS you change your Clutching to recapture those loses. This particular loss is very closely kin to the same situation that you faced by going to larger/more aggressive tires.
We discussed earlier the term Backshifting, but I feel this is such an important topic, that a quick refresher course would be appropriate. The term Backshift refers to the Clutching systems ability to KEEP the engine in its peak powerband, despite the type of riding that you are doing. When you are ON/OFF the throttle, so to speak, you want a STRONG Backshift which give you a quick,crisp throttle response. Excellent example, would be if you are racing and go through a curve, you want your motor to jump right back to that peak RPM level (sweet spot) in the powerband, so you are Pulling hard just as soon as you hit the throttle. Poor Backshifting is typically seen if you have a sluggish or lag in the throttle.
There is a pretty deceit write up discussing, what you should consider when changing your clutch setup. The article was written by Randy Nouis in SnowTech Magazine and redone in sledgear.com, you can view it below:
Inside Clutch Tuning: Tune the Primary or the Secondary?
Although some of the subject matter has already been covered, it’s really a good refresher course in clutching basics.
I always attempt to provide or give credit to articles,writeup,pictures, etc., however the flowchart below was in my notes and since I suffer from CRS, couldn’t recall where it came from. However, I felt that it was a GOOD overall pictorial view of what CLUTCHING IS and WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT.
![]()
Last but not least, IF YOU’RE GOING TO TRY CLUTCHING ON YOUR OWN, YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF TO GET THIS BOOK.
![]()
Well, I guess that this pretty much WRAPS it ALL up, and ALL I want to say is:
IT’s BEEN REAL
And
IT’s BEEN FUN
But
IT SURE HASN’T BEEN REAL FUN
Honestly, I’d like to thank EVERYONE that has encouraged and supported the writing of these segments. As I’ve said in the past, I’ve acted solely as a Conductor attempting to keep this CLUTCHING train on the tracks, much like a Director in a movie AND ALL YOU GUYS ARE THE ACTORS. Many contributing thoughts, ideas, concepts as well as a number of published articles and writeups. THANK YOU One and All. I have gotten much more educated than I was before, due to attempting to organize topics in a fashion that I sincerely HOPE each and everyone was able to glean some new or useful information.
Thanks Again BUDDIES.
Your Backyard Clutch Tester
________________________________________________________________________
As most already know, Clutch kits typically come in 2 packages (0-3000’ Elevation, Above 3000’ Elevation). The reason for this is that your motor will make less power in higher elevations due to the air being less dense. In order for an engine to run properly, you gotta have O2 (air), so the kits have various Flyweight & Spring Combinations to insure that the motor will run in the correct RPM range for these higher elevations.
In the Starting Clutch Overview, Cajun(forum moderator for atvquadsquad) posted:
QUOTE (The general rule of thumb for power losses at altitude are 3% for every thousand feet above sea level. There’s a bit more to it than that, but the rule gives a general idea of power loss. So, if I were to take my quad to 10,000ft., I can expect about an approximate 30% horsepower and torque loss. Because I’m clutched for sea level, my flylweights will be too heavy and I’ll never reach peak rpm. Polaris has some general recommendations for weights at altitudes for quads. I would be surprised if they don’t have similar recommendations for RZRs and Rangers. If I were to take my quad to Colorado, I would probably reduce my flyweights in anticipation of altitude. If you intend to clutch for your highest altitude, you will be bouncing off the rev limiter at lower altitudes. A compromise would be in order.)
I feel his statement pretty much SAYS IT ALL in regards to altitude, so I’ll say,
"THANK YOU", Cajun.
Most of the Newer GPS units provide or indicate what elevation you are at, But if you don’t have a GPS or your unit does not provide that info, you can go to:
EarthTools - Find places, latitude/longitude, sunrise/sunset, elevation, local time and time zones
to find your elevation as well as other useful bits of info, like sunrise/sunset times, local time & time zone, location of places, etc.
Has anyone every noticed that on some particular days, the machine seems to be performing better than others. YES, well this is also attributable to the outside temperature and humidity. As some may already know and for others, you have a Sensor
called the TBAP (short for temperature, barometric air pressure) that is located NORMALLY in the rubber boot between the air box and the throttle body. This little guys samples the air flowing into the engine and sends signals to the ECU (computer brain) on the unit. The ECU has been programmed with various fuel & timing adjustments (maps) where the Polaris Engineers strive to get the maximum performance out of a particular engine. For the most part, we have no or little control of these many,many map combinations, however I felt that small FACTOID would provide a little bit more information explaining good or lackluster performance.
Engine Mods/Turbos/Superchargers
________________________________________________________________________
Since the Polaris Engineers developed/tested their clutch setups for a particular HP as well as RPM range, if you do anything to alter or change your peak RPM, you will need to change your Clutching setup. The very basic reasoning is that you have increased torque,HP, RPM’s and these Faster Goodies are NOT available due to a power loss UNLESS you change your Clutching to recapture those loses. This particular loss is very closely kin to the same situation that you faced by going to larger/more aggressive tires.
We discussed earlier the term Backshifting, but I feel this is such an important topic, that a quick refresher course would be appropriate. The term Backshift refers to the Clutching systems ability to KEEP the engine in its peak powerband, despite the type of riding that you are doing. When you are ON/OFF the throttle, so to speak, you want a STRONG Backshift which give you a quick,crisp throttle response. Excellent example, would be if you are racing and go through a curve, you want your motor to jump right back to that peak RPM level (sweet spot) in the powerband, so you are Pulling hard just as soon as you hit the throttle. Poor Backshifting is typically seen if you have a sluggish or lag in the throttle.
There is a pretty deceit write up discussing, what you should consider when changing your clutch setup. The article was written by Randy Nouis in SnowTech Magazine and redone in sledgear.com, you can view it below:
Inside Clutch Tuning: Tune the Primary or the Secondary?
Although some of the subject matter has already been covered, it’s really a good refresher course in clutching basics.
I always attempt to provide or give credit to articles,writeup,pictures, etc., however the flowchart below was in my notes and since I suffer from CRS, couldn’t recall where it came from. However, I felt that it was a GOOD overall pictorial view of what CLUTCHING IS and WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT.
Last but not least, IF YOU’RE GOING TO TRY CLUTCHING ON YOUR OWN, YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF TO GET THIS BOOK.
Well, I guess that this pretty much WRAPS it ALL up, and ALL I want to say is:
IT’s BEEN REAL
And
IT’s BEEN FUN
But
IT SURE HASN’T BEEN REAL FUN
Honestly, I’d like to thank EVERYONE that has encouraged and supported the writing of these segments. As I’ve said in the past, I’ve acted solely as a Conductor attempting to keep this CLUTCHING train on the tracks, much like a Director in a movie AND ALL YOU GUYS ARE THE ACTORS. Many contributing thoughts, ideas, concepts as well as a number of published articles and writeups. THANK YOU One and All. I have gotten much more educated than I was before, due to attempting to organize topics in a fashion that I sincerely HOPE each and everyone was able to glean some new or useful information.
Thanks Again BUDDIES.
Your Backyard Clutch Tester
