Due to the fact that so Many Pictures are required, there will 3 Parts,
with Part 2 & Part 3 posted as replies to the original.
PART 1
After removing Both seats, one can see the bar that the seats lock to

To remove this bar, you must remove “ 2 “ 5/8” bolts/lock nuts from either end of the bar

Next you must remove “ 2 “ T25 screws that hold the front of the bar to the console in the rear

Remove the panel from behind the seats by turning the 2 plastic lock nuts, then lift out

Remove the clutch cover. You must unscrew the clamp that holds the clutch vent tube to the clutch cover as well as removing “ 8 “ 3/8” screws)located around the cover) that hold the clutch cover to the rear of the clutch housing. Use care when removing the clutch cover making certain that you do not damage the wires on the brake switch(right side,bottom, below clutch cover

View of Clutch area after removal of seats,seat bar & clutch cover
NOTE: There is a RUBBER gasket seal that surrounds the rear clutch cover housing.
DO NOT DAMAGE.
Good idea to remove and clean it with petroleum jelly as well as removing any dust/debris from inside the rubber seal housing. If REMOVED, Do Not Forget to reinstall it.

View of Clutch area if Both the PRIMARY,SECONDARY Clutches are removed

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRIMARY CLUTCH – Removal, Disassembly, Re-installation
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To make it easier to remove the Primary clutch, grasp the Drive belt in the top center and pull upward to force the belt to go between the sheaves of the Secondary clutch.

FRONT OF PRIMARY CLUTCH

You must prevent the Primary clutch from turning when you remove the center bolt using a 5/8” socket wrench. This may be done by either using a rubber handled hammer or a short cheater bar and carefully inserting between the legs of the spider inside the Primary clutch. Since you will turning the bolt COUNTERCLOCK wise, I normally let my tool
Rest on the brace directly behind the fuel tank

Hand loosen the bolt & remove it. Pay attention to the plastic bushing and the 2 washer that are on the bolt. I normally leave ALL 3 on the bolt when I remove it so I don’t forget to reinstall them.

If you have the HOMEmade Primary Clutch removal tool, insert the 4” extension into the hole where you removed the bolt

Now either insert the ¾”16 bolt if HOMEmade puller or insert the formal removal tool.
Hand tighten the bolt by turning it CLOCKWISE Until it is snug or tight

You must AGAIN prevent the Primary Clutch from turning using either the hammer handle or the cheater bar, BUT now you will have to place the restrainst on the opposide side due to turning the bolt CLOCKWISE. You will have to apply a goodly amount of pressure to BREAK the bolt loose. BE CAREFUL, watch your knuckles, LEAN into it.
It will break loose. DO NOT USE A Rubber Mallet or anyother device to HIT, BANG
or FORCE the Primary Clutch off. It will POP off the shaft. Remove the clutch puller bolt by screwing it COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it can be removed. Now just pull the Primary Clutch off the shaft and remove the drive belt off of the Primary Clutch

The sheaves of the primary clutch must be matched, due to the fact that they are installed in a matched fashion. DO NOT depend on alignment of the X’s that are prestamped on the sheave

Loosen then slowly remove the “ 6 “ (3/8”) bolts that hold the cover on

CARE MUST BE TAKEN when final removal of the cover. IF a high rated spring is installed. Have someone HOLD the cover down on the spider or you could use the
Secondary spring compression tool to make the job easier

After removing the cover, the Primary spring is exposed

Just lift the spring off and the shaft will be exposed

With the clutch sitting on a bench, you can see the 3 flyweights that are connected to the spider housing

with Part 2 & Part 3 posted as replies to the original.
PART 1
After removing Both seats, one can see the bar that the seats lock to

To remove this bar, you must remove “ 2 “ 5/8” bolts/lock nuts from either end of the bar

Next you must remove “ 2 “ T25 screws that hold the front of the bar to the console in the rear

Remove the panel from behind the seats by turning the 2 plastic lock nuts, then lift out

Remove the clutch cover. You must unscrew the clamp that holds the clutch vent tube to the clutch cover as well as removing “ 8 “ 3/8” screws)located around the cover) that hold the clutch cover to the rear of the clutch housing. Use care when removing the clutch cover making certain that you do not damage the wires on the brake switch(right side,bottom, below clutch cover

View of Clutch area after removal of seats,seat bar & clutch cover
NOTE: There is a RUBBER gasket seal that surrounds the rear clutch cover housing.
DO NOT DAMAGE.
Good idea to remove and clean it with petroleum jelly as well as removing any dust/debris from inside the rubber seal housing. If REMOVED, Do Not Forget to reinstall it.

View of Clutch area if Both the PRIMARY,SECONDARY Clutches are removed

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PRIMARY CLUTCH – Removal, Disassembly, Re-installation
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To make it easier to remove the Primary clutch, grasp the Drive belt in the top center and pull upward to force the belt to go between the sheaves of the Secondary clutch.

FRONT OF PRIMARY CLUTCH

You must prevent the Primary clutch from turning when you remove the center bolt using a 5/8” socket wrench. This may be done by either using a rubber handled hammer or a short cheater bar and carefully inserting between the legs of the spider inside the Primary clutch. Since you will turning the bolt COUNTERCLOCK wise, I normally let my tool
Rest on the brace directly behind the fuel tank

Hand loosen the bolt & remove it. Pay attention to the plastic bushing and the 2 washer that are on the bolt. I normally leave ALL 3 on the bolt when I remove it so I don’t forget to reinstall them.

If you have the HOMEmade Primary Clutch removal tool, insert the 4” extension into the hole where you removed the bolt

Now either insert the ¾”16 bolt if HOMEmade puller or insert the formal removal tool.
Hand tighten the bolt by turning it CLOCKWISE Until it is snug or tight

You must AGAIN prevent the Primary Clutch from turning using either the hammer handle or the cheater bar, BUT now you will have to place the restrainst on the opposide side due to turning the bolt CLOCKWISE. You will have to apply a goodly amount of pressure to BREAK the bolt loose. BE CAREFUL, watch your knuckles, LEAN into it.
It will break loose. DO NOT USE A Rubber Mallet or anyother device to HIT, BANG
or FORCE the Primary Clutch off. It will POP off the shaft. Remove the clutch puller bolt by screwing it COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it can be removed. Now just pull the Primary Clutch off the shaft and remove the drive belt off of the Primary Clutch

The sheaves of the primary clutch must be matched, due to the fact that they are installed in a matched fashion. DO NOT depend on alignment of the X’s that are prestamped on the sheave

Loosen then slowly remove the “ 6 “ (3/8”) bolts that hold the cover on

CARE MUST BE TAKEN when final removal of the cover. IF a high rated spring is installed. Have someone HOLD the cover down on the spider or you could use the
Secondary spring compression tool to make the job easier

After removing the cover, the Primary spring is exposed

Just lift the spring off and the shaft will be exposed

With the clutch sitting on a bench, you can see the 3 flyweights that are connected to the spider housing
