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Discussion Starter #1
Due to the fact that so Many Pictures are required, there will 3 Parts,
with Part 2 & Part 3 posted as replies to the original.

PART 1

After removing Both seats, one can see the bar that the seats lock to



To remove this bar, you must remove “ 2 “ 5/8” bolts/lock nuts from either end of the bar



Next you must remove “ 2 “ T25 screws that hold the front of the bar to the console in the rear


Remove the panel from behind the seats by turning the 2 plastic lock nuts, then lift out


Remove the clutch cover. You must unscrew the clamp that holds the clutch vent tube to the clutch cover as well as removing “ 8 “ 3/8” screws)located around the cover) that hold the clutch cover to the rear of the clutch housing. Use care when removing the clutch cover making certain that you do not damage the wires on the brake switch(right side,bottom, below clutch cover


View of Clutch area after removal of seats,seat bar & clutch cover
NOTE: There is a RUBBER gasket seal that surrounds the rear clutch cover housing.
DO NOT DAMAGE.
Good idea to remove and clean it with petroleum jelly as well as removing any dust/debris from inside the rubber seal housing. If REMOVED, Do Not Forget to reinstall it.


View of Clutch area if Both the PRIMARY,SECONDARY Clutches are removed


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PRIMARY CLUTCH – Removal, Disassembly, Re-installation
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To make it easier to remove the Primary clutch, grasp the Drive belt in the top center and pull upward to force the belt to go between the sheaves of the Secondary clutch.


FRONT OF PRIMARY CLUTCH


You must prevent the Primary clutch from turning when you remove the center bolt using a 5/8” socket wrench. This may be done by either using a rubber handled hammer or a short cheater bar and carefully inserting between the legs of the spider inside the Primary clutch. Since you will turning the bolt COUNTERCLOCK wise, I normally let my tool
Rest on the brace directly behind the fuel tank


Hand loosen the bolt & remove it. Pay attention to the plastic bushing and the 2 washer that are on the bolt. I normally leave ALL 3 on the bolt when I remove it so I don’t forget to reinstall them.


If you have the HOMEmade Primary Clutch removal tool, insert the 4” extension into the hole where you removed the bolt



Now either insert the ¾”16 bolt if HOMEmade puller or insert the formal removal tool.
Hand tighten the bolt by turning it CLOCKWISE Until it is snug or tight


You must AGAIN prevent the Primary Clutch from turning using either the hammer handle or the cheater bar, BUT now you will have to place the restrainst on the opposide side due to turning the bolt CLOCKWISE. You will have to apply a goodly amount of pressure to BREAK the bolt loose. BE CAREFUL, watch your knuckles, LEAN into it.
It will break loose. DO NOT USE A Rubber Mallet or anyother device to HIT, BANG
or FORCE the Primary Clutch off. It will POP off the shaft. Remove the clutch puller bolt by screwing it COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it can be removed. Now just pull the Primary Clutch off the shaft and remove the drive belt off of the Primary Clutch


The sheaves of the primary clutch must be matched, due to the fact that they are installed in a matched fashion. DO NOT depend on alignment of the X’s that are prestamped on the sheave


Loosen then slowly remove the “ 6 “ (3/8”) bolts that hold the cover on


CARE MUST BE TAKEN when final removal of the cover. IF a high rated spring is installed. Have someone HOLD the cover down on the spider or you could use the
Secondary spring compression tool to make the job easier


After removing the cover, the Primary spring is exposed


Just lift the spring off and the shaft will be exposed


With the clutch sitting on a bench, you can see the 3 flyweights that are connected to the spider housing
 

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Discussion Starter #2
PART 2

Close up view of the flyweight,flyweight pin and nut


Remove the nut from the LEFT end of the pin using 3/8” socket and using a 1/8”
allen wrench on the RIGHT end, then just simply pull the pin to the RIGHT to free the flyweight


Always reinstall the flyweight pin & nut in the same direction that they were removed. To install the New flyweight, just place it back in the spider and carefully but slowly insert the pin back thru, insert the pin from RIGHT to LEFT. Place the nut back on the threads which are exposed on the LEFT side. TORQUE to “ 7 “ INCH/lbs..
MISTAKE made by TOO MANY, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, as this can cause seizing or binding of the flyweight on the spider tower. Repeat this process until you have replaced all 3 flyweights.


This picture shows the STOCK flyweight 20/62 as well as the replacement flyweight.
Shown just for reference purposes ONLY


Next either reinstall or replace the Primary spring. Place the spring in the top of the spider assembly making sure that it is pressed down firmly, then applying slight pressure to the top of the spring, slowly twist it to insure proper seating.


Place the cover back on TOP of the spring. Make certain that the spring is seated properly into the cover. BE SURE to align the X marks that you previously made


Insert the “ 6 “ 3/8” bolts that were previously removed and tighten them down to a point where they are snug. CARE should be taken when slowly tighten the bolt due to the fact that there are edges on 3 corners of the cover that YOU DO NOT want to bind. RETIGHTEN the bolts using a crisscross pattern. TORQUE to “90 “ INCH/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN


Reinstall the Drive belt 1st on the Secondary clutch. Be certain to install the belt with the
Writing, words or name reading from LEFT to RIGHT. Take a good grasp of the belt pull upward to force the belt between the sheaves of the Secondary clutch. This will make it simplier when installing the Primary clutch.


Slide the belt over and around the sheaves of the Primary clutch and carefully place it back on Drive spindle shaft. Reinsert the bolt in the center, making certain that the plastic bushing and the 2 washer are reinstalled. Care should be taken to insure that you do not bind the bushing. Hand tighten.


You will need prevent the Primary clutch from turning. You may use a rubber handled hammer insert between the spider arms or use a short cheater bar in the same manner.
TORQUE the center bolt to “ 40 “ FOOT/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN



After REINSTALLING the Primary Clutch, grasp the Secondary Clutch and slowly, but carefully turn it CLOCKWISE to tighten the Drive Belt back up. CAUTION, don’t get your fingers pinched between the belt and the sheaves of the Secondary Clutch


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SECONDARY CLUTCH Removal,Disassembly, Re-installation
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INFORMATIONAL NOTE: I prefer to Remove the Primary Clutch any time that I am working on the Secondary. This is due to the fact SOME of the Drive Belts are EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO REINSTALL. However, this decision is ALWAYS left with each individual.


FRONT OF SECONDARY CLUTCH



To remove the Secondary Clutch you must the ½” bolt in the center of the clutch. You must prevent the clutch from turning by using a cheater bar.



Hand remove the bolt, the pull forward on Secondary Clutch. It will slide off the Transmission shaft



When removing the Secondary Clutch, there may be some SPACER LOCATED BEHIND the clutch. DO NOT LOSE them AND pay attention to the direction that they reside on the shaft IF they are removed



Lay the Secondary Clutch on a work bench and turn it over to expose the “ 4 “ T25 screws


Using a T25 screw remover, take out the “ 4 “ T25 screws holding the Helix


Now, twist the Helix just a bit, lift up and remove


With the Helix removed, you can now see the Secondary shaft


You MUST mark the postion of the Roller Cage on the shaft and Secondary Clutch. By doing this, the task of re-installation/realignment will be made much simplier.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
PART 3

Picture of Secondary Clutch Compression tool(just one of many different types)



Next place the Secondary Clutch on the tool and tighten the nut on the top of the tool, until you can see the bottom of the snap ring.


Using a STRONG set of snap ring plier, spread the snap ring and move it up the shaft. You will have to release some of the pressure holding it down, so later the snap ring may be moved to the end of the shaft


Closeup of Snap ring outside of the Groove


After loosing the top of the tool, you may now use the snap ring pliers to slide the snap ring to the top of the shaft, then release and remove the tool.


You may now totally loosen and remove the tool.




At this point, you may remove and replace the Secondary Spring. When placing the spring back into the Secondary Clutch, be certain that you have it seated properly with no binding.



Next place the roller cage onto the top of the spring, giving a twisting motion backward & forward, insuring proper seating and no binding



Place the snap ring back onto the shaft directly on top of the roller cage, reassemble the tool and place just enough tension, so that the snap ring may be put back on.



Now using the snap ring pliers, position the snap ring over the shaft and as far down as it can be moved


Screw the top of tool down to a point where you can see the groove for the ring at the bottom


You may not carefully but firmly expand the snap ring and seat it into the groove as indicated. MAKE sure that you have the ring firmly seated into the groove


You may now, remove the Compression tool and remove the Secondary Clutch, placing it back onto the bench


Reinstall the Helix, MAKING certain that the X’s made earlier ALIGN properly. When the Helix is pressed all the way, turn it at least ¼ turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to seat the rollers against the ramp angle. Reinstall the “ 4 “ T25 screws that were removed earlier and Torque to “ 7 “ INCH/lbs.( or slightly more than hand-tight), snug up in a crisscross fashion.



You may now place the Secondary Clutch back on the Transmission shaft. Insure that the splines the Transmission shaft mesh properly with the Clutch and that the Clutch is pushed entirely to the back of the shaft. Insure that the SPACERS(if any) are still on the shaft between the Clutch and the Transmission.
Re-install the cupped washer,lock washer and nut, then hand tighten.


You must now retighten the bolt using a ½ socket and Torque Wrench. The bolt must be tightened to “ 17 “ FOOT/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You must prevent the Secondary Clutch from turning as the bolt is retightened, so the use of a cheater bar may be necessary.



Reinstall the Drive belt 1st on the Secondary clutch. Be certain to install the belt with the
Writing, words or name reading from LEFT to RIGHT. Take a good grasp of the belt pull upward to force the belt between the sheaves of the Secondary clutch. This will make it simplier when installing the Primary clutch.


Slide the belt over and around the sheaves of the Primary clutch and carefully place it back on Drive spindle shaft. Reinsert the bolt in the center, making certain that the plastic bushing and the 2 washer are reinstalled. Care should be taken to insure that you do not bind the bushing. Hand tighten.


You will need prevent the Primary clutch from turning. You may use a rubber handled hammer insert between the spider arms or use a short cheater bar in the same manner.
TORQUE the center bolt to “ 40 “ FOOT/lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN


After REINSTALLING the Primary Clutch, grasp the Secondary Clutch and slowly, but carefully turn it CLOCKWISE to tighten the Drive Belt back up. CAUTION, don’t get your fingers pinched between the belt and the sheaves of the Secondary Clutch

INFORMATIONAL NOTE: At this junction, you may want to START the engine, making SURE that the Transmission is in PARK.

IF THERE ARE ANY LOOSE WIRE/WIRING, TIE THEM AWAY THE EITHER OR BOTH CLUTCHES AS DOUBLE THE THE RUBBER GASKET THAT SURROUNDS THE BACK CLUTCH HOUSING TO INSURE THAT “ IT IS SEATED IN THE GROOVE”, OTHERWISE WHEN YOU ARE CHECKING THE DRIVE BELT OUT, YOU MAY HAVE A L O T OF little,tiny pieces of rubber/wiring ALL over the place.
With the Engine Running, slowly increase the RPM’s to see if the Drive Belt is riding to the TOP of the Primary Clutch and there are BINDING issues in the Secondary Clutch.

NOW YOU CAN WATCH HOW THE PRIMARY / SECONDARY CLUTCHES WORK

You may RE-install the Clutch cover using the “ 8 “ 3/8” bolts removed earlier. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN these bolts as they are set in plastic and are very prone to StripeOut . Just tighten slighten slightly above HANDTIGHTENING. Be certain that if the gasket seal was remove to replace it. Check the gasket seal to insure that it is seated properly into the groove around the back clutch housing and that it is inserted properly.

Now you are ready to replace the seat brace and reinstall the “ 2” 5/8” bolts and lock nuts as well as the “ 2 “ T25 bolts that hold the brace to the center console.
 
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